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A Lure Chowder House & “Oyster-ia” Lands at Port of Egypt Marina

Overlooking Peconic Bay at the site once occupied for years by the iconic Seafood Barge, comes the dynamic A Lure Chowder House & “Oyster-ia,” which is part of the Port of Egypt Marina in Southold. It’s the brainchild of Long Island super-star chef, Tom Schaudel, and his partner, Adam Lovett; chef de cuisine, Jeffrey Uguil, is also a co-owner.

I’ll go out on a limb and say this will be one of the North Fork’s hottest restaurants.

Why?

It’s the food, stupid. And the view.

Not that the décor is shabby. The shiny new dining room opens up to a striking vista of Peconic Bay and the small green hills of Shelter Island in the distance. And there are enough Grady White’s moored to make one consider boating as a new pastime. Scenes of North Fork fishing life adorn the walls courtesy of local painter, Max Moran whose warm palette is created by a mix of oils and acrylic.

Appetizers sampled included Satur Farms mixed salad, Bay Scallops ceviche (with coconut, passion fruit, lime and chilies); Baja style fish (tilapia) tacos with guacamole; and Tom’s spiced-up gumbo ya-ya (yes, that’s what it’s called) which packed a piquant punch.

Entrees included a lobster roll with hand-cut fries and country slaw; potato crusted cod (with braised green beluga lentils and verjus beurre blanc; steamed halibut with chorizo, new potatoes, fennel and a wonderful Romesco sauce. All were well-presented and honestly: fabulous. Schaudel – ever the purist – has this to say about how he’ll serve your lobster: “I believe it to be somewhat sacrilegious while gazing out at the Peconic Bay, to eat a whole lobster any way other than steamed with lemon and butter. Therefore, being a purist, and a bit hard-headed, please don’t ask me for broiled, stuffed or grilled. I simply will not defile the magnificent creature with unnecessary flame, flavors or focaccia.”

The menu also offers a raw bar, three pasta selections and another category called, “If You Must” – marinated skirt steak; filet mignon and a cheeseburger. We didn’t dare order from that section for fear of recrimination.

Desserts delivered as well. Our favorite was the Catapano Farms goat cheese tart with rhubarb; housemade Key Lime pie with blackberries; plaintain spring rolls with vanilla ice cream and chocolate and raspberry dip-dip and a delightful chocolate cake.

On the way home, we saw an angler land a “keeper bass.” I asked him what he was using. “A lure,” he wisecracked. A Lure indeed.

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