Page at 63 Main

When a legendary restaurant closes, sometimes that’s good news for fellow restaurateurs – not that anyone would wish ill will against Jerry Della Femina and his eponymous eatery. Indeed, it IS a big deal that Della Femina has served its last meal. However, the beneficiary of this closing is the newly launched Page at 63 Main in Sag Harbor, for they named long-time sous chef, Jessie Flores, to be top toque. Flores worked in Della Femina’s kitchen for ten years, the last five years under a combination of Mike Rozzi and James Carpenter (the executive chef at The Living Room at c/o Maidstone). A recent Friday evening’s meal proved satisfying if not dynamic.

We started with four appetizers – and while we don’t want to rank them (all were really solid) – the Asian steamed buns proved the most inventive and flavorful. This visually appealing dish (see above) featured pickled cucumber, avocado, scallions, cilantro, green curry, soy glaze, smoked coconut and shitake mushrooms. Zowie Batman! This amalgam of flavors was stuffed into three steamed buns; you want to pick one up soft-taco style but you’re better off using a knife and fork. Great dish.

The local baby beet salad with apples, smoked Cheddar, endive and watercress was large and tasty; home made black bean ravioli (tomato concasse, chorizo ragout and Parmesan cheese) had us grabbing for “mop-up bread.” And the grilled melon salad (with Maytag bleu cheese, roasted cashews, candied carrots and mache) had such a flavor explosion, that I sent a brief “thank you note” to the melon.

Appetizer prices range from $11 - $21 (foie gras); all the portions were hefty. Page at 63 Main doesn’t skimp on portion (or prices) when it comes to main courses either. Entrees range in price from $25 - $33, but again: very satisfying. Seared fluke over baby bok choy, plantain puree and carrot beurre blanc was perfectly cooked, presented – and shortly demolished; vegan soba noodles (with black trumpet mushrooms, carrots, water chestnuts and lemongrass soy) seemed to be a direct challenge to traditional pasta.

However, it was countered by a luxurious lobster fettuccine that demanded attention – and a doggy bag. The winner, however, might have been the lamb chops – the size of which still impresses. Tender, meaty, and just right fatty, these were of the sort that King Arthur chomped on. (“Another rack for my men Squire!”)

Desserts were simple and not over-sweet: flourless chocolate cake; tres leches; sorbet and ice cream. Chef Flores will no doubt add another one or three. Not that we had any room.

Page at 63 Main will be a welcome addition to Sag Harbor’s Main Street – and the East End dining scene may soon forget that other restaurant. What was its name again?

Tags: beet, fettucini, lamb chops, lobster, mushrooms, Page at 63 Main, Sag Harbor, soba noodles, steamed asian buns, tres leches, vegan

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